The Expat Mama's
Little Black Book

A legendary coffee shop tucked into the basement of Pasar Santa. Rows of jars filled with single-origin Indonesian beans — Aceh Gayo, Toraja, Papua Wamena, Flores, Bali Kintamani — plus international origins, all roasted on site. More than 20 varieties at prices that will make you feel smug every time you brew at home.

Come for the Gorgonzola Financier — it's the main reason to visit and worth every bit of the trip. The space is clean and simple, good for a quick catch-up or a solo coffee stop. It's on the small side so not the best for long lingering conversations, but as a spot to drop in and treat yourself, it delivers.

A Japanese specialty coffee brand that's expanded beautifully across Jakarta. The vibe is calm and considered — mid-century Japanese interiors, warm wood tones, serious attention to extraction and origin. If you care about what's actually in your cup, Kurasu gets it right consistently across locations.

A quiet, well-designed café with good coffee and a comfortable atmosphere. The kind of place you can actually have a conversation in. The BSD branch does a charred veggie plate we love — do note that menus vary by location so what's available in one branch may not be in another.

The BSD outpost of NOB, with the same easy atmosphere. A reliable go-to in BSD when you want somewhere calm and considered rather than a mall food court.

Good fusion food and coffee across multiple locations. They take their coffee seriously here and the brews are genuinely good — that's the real reason to go. Some branches have better ambience than others; the Ashta District 8 branch is a favourite.

Originally from Bali, with branches in Japan too — and now Jakarta, where people are flocking. Expect to wait for a seat at peak times. Worth it. Best visited after an early morning run or reserve ahead on weekends.

If you love pairing your coffee with a proper hearty meal rather than just a snack — this is the spot. Good food, good coffee, comfortable atmosphere.

The BSD outpost of the well-known Jakarta café group. Good fusion food alongside reliable, well-made coffee. A comfortable spot for a working morning or a casual meetup when you want something beyond a mall food court.

A hidden gem in BSD — industrial minimalist design with a comfortable outdoor area, manual brew coffee, and a rooftop spot for afternoons. Located in Ocean Park Plaza BSD. The kind of low-key place that becomes a regular without you planning for it.

A BSD café that comes recommended by friends in the area. On the list to visit — included here on trusted word of mouth from people who know BSD's coffee scene well.

Another BSD café that comes highly recommended by locals in the area. Not yet visited personally but it keeps coming up in conversations with people whose taste I trust.

Oslo's legendary coffee bar, now in Jakarta at Ashta District 8. Terrific coffee — the Scandinavian approach to espresso and filter is distinct and wonderful. One of the best cups you can get in the city, full stop. The space is beautifully designed and feels nothing like a typical Jakarta café.

One of the best burgers we've had in Jakarta. Proper smash-style, good ingredients, no fuss. The kind of place teens will actually be excited about and that you won't mind going back to again and again.

Our go-to whenever friends or family visit from overseas. The ambience is warm, service is reliable, and the food consistently delivers. Indonesian classics done properly — nasi tumpeng, soto, grilled fish — in a setting that actually feels like Indonesia. You can find a Remboelan in most major malls across Jakarta.

We spent many weekends here when we first moved to Jakarta — the kids loved the chicken satay and my mum's favourite is the tahu telur. It's the kind of restaurant that becomes a family ritual without you even planning for it. Reliable, homey, and consistently good.

Simple, well-executed fusion food in a clean modern café setting. Reliable for a quick lunch or a working coffee. Multiple locations across the city — branches vary in ambience but the ones along Senopati and in Bumi tend to be the most pleasant to sit in.

Small, casual, cozy — and really good pizza. They do the classics well but the new flavours are where it gets interesting. Also serve noodles. Reasonably priced and the kind of place you find yourself going back to more than you expected.

We've tried many Korean BBQ spots in Jakarta and Bornga is hands down our favourite. The meat cuts and grilling style just consistently hit the spot. A proper family dinner out that everyone at the table is happy about.

When you want something warm and soupy — this is the answer. Classic Chinese hotpot with a comforting broth and a wide variety of options at the sauce station. Great for a rainy Jakarta evening with the family. The Pondok Pinang branch has a private karaoke room you can use — a fun addition if you're going with a larger group.

No-fuss Japanese that you can find across most major malls in Jakarta. Consistent, reliable, good value. The kind of restaurant that becomes a default when you need something everyone will eat without debate.

Not to be confused with Sushiro (the chain). Sushi Hiro has a consistently recognisable interior design — you'll know it's a Sushi Hiro outlet even before you see the sign. Reliable Japanese, good sushi, and a familiar feel wherever you find them.

A group of beautiful restaurants that do Indonesian cuisine with real elegance. Each location has its own character — Plataran Hutan Kota inside GBK is stunning for impressing a client, Plataran Dharmawangsa is cozy and intimate, and Plataran Menteng has a classic old-Jakarta charm. All three have lovely interiors unique to each location. The kind of place that reminds you why you love living here.

Open to non-members. Beautiful outdoor setting with pool views that make BSD feel like somewhere entirely different. Go on a weekday if you can — quieter, more relaxed, and genuinely worth it.

An Italian restaurant tucked away in a ruko in BSD — the kind of place you'd walk past without knowing what's inside, and then keep coming back to once you've discovered it. Their pizzas and gelato were on our repeat list for the longest time. Genuinely good Italian in an unlikely setting, which is exactly what makes it worth knowing about.

A traditional Italian restaurant that feels like comfort food done right. The kind of place where you go when you want something familiar, warm, and unpretentious. The tiramisu is genuinely good — don't skip it.

A lovely spot with an al fresco area surrounded by greenery — one of those places that makes you forget you're in the middle of Jakarta. Good Indonesian fusion food and a relaxed, unhurried vibe. Perfect for a long lunch or an early evening out.

A Japanese ramen restaurant that's become a favourite among Jakarta's ramen lovers. Rich, well-crafted broths and generous portions. The kind of place you go when you want proper Japanese comfort food done right.

An izakaya-style Japanese restaurant with a relaxed, convivial atmosphere. Good for groups, good for drinks alongside food, and a welcome alternative to the more formal Japanese dining options in the city.

The Taiwanese dumpling institution, now well-established across Jakarta's major malls. The xiao long bao are as reliable here as anywhere in the world. A consistent crowd-pleaser for families and visitors alike — especially useful when you need somewhere everyone will agree on.

A Korean BBQ chain that's made a real impression on Jakarta's dining scene. Good quality meat cuts, well-designed space, and consistent service. A solid alternative when you want Korean BBQ but Bornga feels too familiar.

Indonesia's top imported meat supplier with a retail shop on Jalan Cipaku — right near Pasar Santa. Wagyu, lamb racks, quality charcuterie, imported dairy, proper sausages. Everything you need for a Sunday roast that actually impresses. There's also a BSD branch, which is just as well-stocked. Worth noting: their olive oils and butters are sometimes cheaper here than in supermarkets — always worth comparing.

The South Jakarta supermarket that genuinely surprises. Huge, well-stocked, with a good imported goods selection and excellent fresh produce. Far less hectic than mall-based alternatives and considerably better value.

My preferred Grand Lucky over the Radio Dalam branch — this one simply offers so much more. Fresh tempeh and tofu alongside imported cheeses, a solid imported section, and a range that covers everything from everyday staples to the harder-to-find ingredients. Worth the trip into SCBD for a bigger weekly shop.

BSD's most reliable everyday supermarket. Good range of local and imported essentials, wide aisles, and less crowded than AEON on weekends. The go-to for a regular weekly shop in BSD.

Japanese-format supermarket with an excellent fresh fish counter, wide imported selection, and — the best part — sushi on the go that is genuinely good and a fraction of restaurant price. Also connected to the AEON department store for basic household necessities in one stop.

Premium imports, organic produce, and a wide selection of specialty items. Pricier but the most reliable for high-end imported goods in South Jakarta. Multiple locations across the city.

Japanese ingredients that you simply won't find elsewhere — Japanese radish, cucumber, karaage-cut chicken, readymade bento and sushi, and a Sozai section for eat-now meals. They also have smaller branches for quick trips — the one inside Pondok Indah Golf Apartment is a handy stop for South Jakarta residents. Blok M has good street food nearby too, so make a morning of it at that branch.

A small wholefoods grocery with real personality. They have a kombucha station — live, by the bottle — and a nuts and spice section where you buy exactly what you need by the gram. The kind of shop that makes you feel good about what you're putting in your body and your kitchen. Worth seeking out if you lean towards natural, organic, or specialty ingredients.

Nagarey was the first place we bought furniture from when we moved to Jakarta — and it's stayed a firm favourite ever since. Good quality Indonesian furniture at prices that are reasonable across the board. The showroom is on the 2nd floor with the curated pieces; the 1st floor carries warehouse stock giving you even more to browse. A practical note for expats: when the time comes to move or leave Jakarta, Nagarey pieces sell fast. Every time I've posted one secondhand, it gets snapped up quickly. That kind of resale value says a lot about the quality.

A solid furniture and homeware destination for expats furnishing a new space — good range, reliable quality, and reasonably priced for the category. Worth visiting before committing to anything larger.

Indonesia's most practical home store — reliable for kitchen necessities, storage, basic furniture, and everyday household items. Both the Jakarta Selatan and BSD locations are well-stocked. Think IKEA-lite in terms of practicality.

For décor that looks considered without requiring you to source everything individually. Cushions, throws, ceramics, candles — ZARA Home in Jakarta is reliably good and rotates seasonally. One of the more affordable ways to make a rental feel like yours quickly.

Home fragrance that genuinely surprises — beautiful packaging, scents that actually last, and prices that are far more reasonable than international equivalents. If you care about how your home smells (and you should), this is where to start.

We bought our bed frame from XIONCO on Tokopedia and genuinely love it. If you're furnishing on Tokopedia, this is a seller worth knowing — good quality, ships reliably, and the price-to-quality ratio is excellent.

The fabric market in South Jakarta that expats eventually discover — and then wonder why it took them so long. Look for Fancy and Crowne specifically: good quality fabrics at market prices, great for curtains, upholstery, custom cushion covers, or anything you want made up. Bring your measurements and a reference image.

Natural products rooted in Balinese tradition — essential oils, incense, body care, and insect repellents that actually work. If you're newly arrived and getting destroyed by Jakarta's mosquitoes (you will be), Utama Spice's natural repellents are the first thing to order. The incense is beautiful and worth having in the home year-round.

A Jakarta institution and a genuine delight for food lovers. The variety is excellent — but what keeps me coming back is the cheese section, where you can taste before you buy (a small luxury that matters enormously). Their in-house sausages are also worth picking up every time. The Kemang branch has more character; Pacific Place is more convenient if you're already in SCBD.

A newer wellness spot with a cosy, welcoming ambience. The kind of place that feels fresh and well put-together — good for a massage when you want somewhere that feels a cut above the usual.

More affordable than most and with a genuinely cozy space — this one leans into Bali vibes, which makes the whole experience feel a little more like a getaway than a regular city massage. A great value option when you want something that feels intentional without the splurge price tag.

A Japanese-style massage inside a cozy shared space — and importantly, you stay fully clothed throughout. No undressing required, which makes it a much more accessible option for expats trying massage for the first time or who simply prefer that format. Good for the whole family.

A home spa service that comes to you — genuinely good value and the ability to choose your own therapist makes a real difference. When you can't face leaving the house but your body needs attention, this is the answer.

Another home spa service — slightly higher priced than Nawasena but they bring a proper massage bed, which elevates the whole experience considerably. Worth the extra if you want something that feels genuinely spa-like at home.

More than just Dunia Kopi — Pasar Santa is a whole Saturday morning. Vintage finds, local art, record shops, good food stalls, and the kind of low-key Jakarta energy that makes you genuinely fond of the city. Great for tweens and teens who appreciate something with more texture than a mall.

A 10-hectare private botanical park with mature trees, a 1.8km jogging track, lakeside paths, and outdoor fitness stations. One of BSD's genuinely lovely surprises and the best answer to "what do we do this weekend that isn't a mall?"

A proper 5-star club experience — infinity pools, tennis courts, fitness suites, private dining and wellness. Membership-based but worth exploring for long-term BSD residents. May Star restaurant is open to all. Ballet and kids' classes sometimes available.

Every Sunday morning from 6am to 10am, Jakarta closes its main roads to traffic and hands them back to the people. The iconic route runs along Jalan Sudirman and Jalan MH Thamrin — from Bundaran Senayan all the way up to Monas — roughly 6.5km of open road. Joggers, cyclists, families with strollers, inline skaters, aerobics groups, food cart vendors — everyone comes out. It's one of those Jakarta experiences that makes you genuinely love the city. For South Jakarta residents, there's also a local CFD route along Jalan Sultan Iskandar Muda (Arteri Pondok Indah) on the third Sunday of each month.

The gold standard for expat healthcare in South Jakarta. English-speaking doctors across all specialities, reliable emergency care, international insurance accepted. Save the number in your phone before you need it: +62 21 765 7525.

The most widely used hospital network among expat families. Strong across specialities, generally reliable English-language service, and multiple South Jakarta locations. Good for everything from paediatrics to women's health.

International clinic for everyday GP visits, vaccinations, and non-emergency care. English-speaking, international insurance accepted, and much faster than going to a full hospital for minor things.

BSD's go-to hospital for expat families. English-speaking doctors, well-equipped, and conveniently located near the main BSD residential clusters. Ask in expat groups for specific doctor recommendations — personal referrals within EKA make a real difference.

The single most useful tip I can give anyone in BSD: do not buy glasses or computer accessories in a mall until you have checked ITC BSD first. The optical selection here is wider than any mall optician, and the prices are significantly lower. Quality is comparable. Also excellent for laptops and tech accessories.

For South Jakarta, PIM remains the most complete shopping destination — fashion, homeware, electronics, beauty, and a reliable Food Hall. PIM 3 is the newest and most pleasant wing. Worth knowing: the basement levels house practical services most expats eventually need — shoe repair, bag repair, and dry cleaning, all at very reasonable prices.

Japanese department store format — excellent for household basics, kitchenware, storage, clothing basics, and everyday necessities. The Japanese household section is worth browsing for kitchen items and organisation solutions at better prices than Western equivalents.

A well-rounded mall with all the brands you need for everyday shopping — fashion, beauty, homeware, and more — without being overwhelming. A practical go-to when you need to tick several boxes in one trip. There's also an ABC Cooking Studio here if you or the kids are interested in cooking classes.

One of Jakarta's older malls — it doesn't have the shiny newness of the newer developments, but it's still a pleasant place to wander and explore. A good mix of shops and dining, and rarely as crowded as the bigger malls nearby. Sometimes the older malls are the more civilised ones.

A huge multi-floor marketplace dedicated entirely to Indonesian brands — apparel, accessories, snacks, beauty, homeware, and everything in between. This is the best place in Jakarta to shop local in one go. Great to bring visiting friends and family who want to take home something authentically Indonesian — from batik to artisan home goods to local snacks — without hunting around the city.

My favourite alternative to Aesop — and since Aesop isn't available in Jakarta, Sensatia is where I get my refills. Their lotions and hand wash are beautiful: natural ingredients, lovely scent profiles, and packaging that feels considered. A Bali brand that travels well.

Bean-to-bar Indonesian chocolate with packaging that beautifully reflects the country's rich culture. A wide range of variants — I try something new every time. Genuinely delicious and makes a thoughtful gift that people actually remember.

I love nama chocolates — when we lived in Singapore I'd always buy from a famous Japanese brand. Jakarta has that option too, but at prices that are hard to justify. Kakaw is the answer: Indonesian nama chocolates in different flavours, perfect as gifts. The kids are obsessed with the Dubai chocolate version — the gold bar ones. A guaranteed crowd-pleaser.

Walk into any grocery's coffee section and you'll find an entire wall of Indonesian coffees — bubuk (ground), whole bean, drip, and instant — from regions across the archipelago. Most label the origin, variety (Arabica or Robusta), and flavour notes. One of the best value things to take home. The most requested item whenever we visit family in Manila? Avocado-flavoured instant coffee. Don't knock it until you've tried it.

If you're going to splurge once, splurge here. The St. Regis sets the bar for personalized service in Jakarta — the 24-hour butler service is genuinely attentive in a way that feels thoughtful rather than performative. Rooms are beautiful, the breakfast buffet at Bel Étage is an event in itself, and the whole experience has a quiet confidence that's hard to find elsewhere. Tatler's Best City Hotel 2026 and a Michelin Key hotel — the recognition is deserved.

Lovely, lovely rooms — and a breakfast spread with a view that makes you want to linger well past checkout. The Langham has a polished British elegance that somehow feels perfectly at home in Jakarta. Two Michelin Keys 2025, ranked #1 hotel in Indonesia and #4 in Southeast Asia by Condé Nast Traveller — which, having stayed here, feels entirely fair.

Generously sized rooms — Jakarta's hotels are known for space, and Raffles does this particularly well. The breakfast buffet at Arts Café is abundant and beautifully presented. The hotel is suffused with Indonesian art inspired by painter Hendra Gunawan — it's on the carpets, the walls, carved into marble — which makes the whole experience feel genuinely rooted in place rather than generic luxury. Connected to Ciputra Artpreneur Gallery for a cultural add-on.

This one is different, and that's exactly the point. The Oddbird — part of the 25hours global hotel group — has a cozy, eclectic, personality-forward vibe that feels nothing like a standard luxury property. Mid-century furnishings, curated art, a hidden sky pool, free minibar, and a genuine sense of character throughout. Connected to Ashta Mall, with Fuglen coffee and some of the best dining in the city right downstairs. Up your alley if you like hotels that feel like a place, not just a room.

A Jakarta landmark with genuine historical significance — Indonesia's first luxury five-star hotel, opened in 1962, now managed by Kempinski. The location at Bundaran HI is unbeatable for central Jakarta access, directly connected to Grand Indonesia Mall. Solid service, good facilities including a rooftop pool and spa. A classic choice that delivers a reliable five-star experience, even if it doesn't quite reach the heights of the newer properties on this list.